Hoosier Tires now in stock!
order now: (765) 339-4407
Hoosier Tires are now available to the karting industry. At first, the kart tires evolved from Hoosier's 1/4 midget line that has been race proven from coast to coast on both dirt and asphalt racing surfaces. Now, Hoosier has developed tires to more specifically meet the kart racer's needs.
Below are some common questions asked about the tires that I will try to answer as detailed as possible. There is also some important information regarding testing that we have personally done with these tires.
Sizes and Availability
Currently, there are five dirt slick sizes available in 6 inch diameter for karting. They are as follows:
11 X 8.10 - 6, 11 X 6.00 - 6, 10.5 X 5.50 - 6, 10 X 5.50 - 6, and 10 X 4.50 - 6.
In '06. Hoosier changed their size description to better equate to the rest of the karting industry. (IE, 35 X 8.10 - 6 = 11 - 8.10 - 6.) This is a direct result of karter feedback that the company thinks so highly of. Some older inventory still carry the older nomenclature just for reference. For exisiting inventory, those unfamiliar with Hoosier's tire sizing marks...the 35 stands for approximate rollout, or circumference measurement on a same size wheel.
The all new 11 X 8.10 tire is very compatible with the Maxxis 12 X 8.00 - 6 wide (Pink) tires. They feature a larger roll-out, square shoulder, and a slightly higher spring rate than the previously released 8.10 tire when mounted on 10" wide wheels. The tire contact patch is slightly wider than a Burris 8.10 or Maxxis 8.00 thin (blue). It has seen great success in actual racing. When mounted on a 10 inch wheel and inflated to 8 psi, the tire measures right at 34" -34 1/4" circumference. (See mounting instructions on this page). It can be kept slightly smaller as well. We encourage our racers to keep their right side tire sizes consistent. We recommend 34" circumference to standardize the chassis ride height. Please check with your chassis manufacturer for their recommendations as well. This tire makes an excellent right side tire for oval track applications needing more rubber at the contact patch. This is great for tight bullring tracks, low grip surfaces, and high horsepower tire applications. Since the 7.10 wide tire has been discontinued, we now use the 8.10's on larger tracks as well. It still rolls the corners well, but similar to Maxxis and Firestones, I feel it has excess drag on long straights or big momentum tracks due to the larger contact patch as it comes from the factory. For this reason, we recommend having the 8.10 Hoosiers professionally cut on a tire lathe to give them some contour to reduce tread depth and excess weight. This results in faster lap times due to reduced rotating mass, reduced drag, and more consistent tire temperatures. It is NOT always necessary to have Hoosier tires cut, however, please contact us for all your tire cutting and contouring needs if you so desire.
The 11 X 7.10 dirt slick tire has been phased out despite being very popular with karters and outlaw cage kart racers that we have dealt with. It was very compatible with the competitor's 8.10. We mounted the 7.10 on a 10" wide Douglas wheel and measured the rollout at 34" with 8 psi. The tire contact patch is nearly identical, and will need less material removed, "cut", from the shoulder area than the Burris. This was welcomed news to those in our industry, like ourselves, that cut tires and know the difficulty involved in removing large amounts of rubber from very soft compound tires. This was the best tire for right sides running a stocker on momentum and big highspeed ovals with high grip. Since it has been discontinued, we have gone to using the 8.10 wide tire and using less prep.We highly recommend that you have your 8.10 Hoosiers cut for best performance on high bite or high speed tracks.
The 11 X 6.00, previously called the 10.7 X 5.50, is comparable to competitor's 6.00 and has a 6 inch wide tread contact patch. This is the perfect left rear for all stock class oval chassis requiring less rear stagger. This tire builds just the right amount of stagger and left rear drive for stockers on high speed momentum oval tracks where high cross is the ticket. Hoosier's left rear 11.0 X 6.00, or previous inventory named this 10.7 X 5.50 and earlier version, 33.7 X 5.50, is just what we've been asking for in a taller left rear and less rear stagger. Hoosier's 11.0 X 6.00left rear is nice..., the racers love it. Typically this tire rolls out at 33 3/4" on a 7 3/4" wheel, and 33 1/4" on an 8 1/4" or 8 1/2" wheel, inflated to 6 psi. We prefer to mounton 8 1/2" wheels for most applications. Of course, the tire can be stretched a little. This makes this tire a great left rear stagger tire to compensate for the low stagger most chassis manufacturers are recommending when using high cross set ups.
The 10.5 X 5.50, previously called the 33.5 X 5.50, is comparable to a Burris 6.00 and has a 6 inch wide tread contact patch. This is the perfect left rear for all stock class oval chassis requiring less cross and more stagger for smaller tracks. This tire builds just the right amount of stagger and left rear drive for stockers on smaller and momentum style oval tracks. Typically the 10.5 X 5.50 tire rolls out at 33 1/4" on a 7 3/4" wheel, and 33" on an 8 1/4"or 8 1/2" wheel, inflated to 6 psi. Of course, it can be stretched a little. This makes this tire a great left rear tire to increase stagger for smaller oval racing applications.
The 10 X 5.50, previously 33 X 5.50, tire is comparable to a Burris 6.00 and has a 6 inch wide tread contact patch. This is the perfect small left rear for all stock class oval chassis on smaller tracks and restrictor classes where much less cross is needed. This tire builds just the right amount of stagger for stockers and juniors on small bullring and indoor tracks. Only problem I see with the 10 X 5.50, is that it is still based on their 33" tire mold, which means it is a bugger to grow on a wide left rear wheel to make low stagger like most chassis now want (1/2 - 5/8") for big momentum tracks. I would not recommend this tire for high cross or low stagger applications. Typically the 10 X 5.50 tire rolls out at 33 1/4" on a 6 1/2" wheel, and 33" on a 7 or 7 1/4" wheel, inflated to 6 psi. I recently mounted this10 X 5.50 on an 8 3/4" wheel (which is what some chassis manufacturers suggest for increased left rear drive from the center of the corner - out), and the tire was VERY difficult, if not dangerous, to mount (seat the bead). It rolled out at 32 1/2", which is unusable for most applications other than a few indoor tracks. I then inflated it in a cage to a "higher than recommended" pressure, and warmed the tire up for two hours in a hot box. I left the tire in a closed hot box only to return to room temperature some 12 hours later. I let the air out, let it sit for 8 hours, and came up with 33 1/8". Personally I didn't feel that it was worth all the effort to stretch the tire just to accomodate that particular width wheel. My preference has been to stay with 7 3/4" or 8 1/4" left rear wheel widths for this tire.....but, it CAN be done.
These tires are very difficult to stretch (see notes below).
The 10 X 4.50, previously 33 X 4.50 left side tire is perfect for a left front. We typically mount the left front on a 6" or 6 1/2" wide wheel. Using a 6" wheel results in a 33" circumference at 6 psi. On a 6 1/2" wheel you will end up closer to 32 1/2" circumference. We prefer to use the 6 1/2" wheel for this reason. This works well to create stagger across the front of the chassis with the Hoosier right front tire measuring 34" yielding 1 1/2" natural stagger without stretching, etc. The 4.50 can also be used as a left rear, but leaves a little too much stagger in the rear for most chassis manufacturers recommendations. For some pavement,indoorsyrup, and very large track applications, we have been mounting the 4.50's as a left rear on a 6 1/2" wide wheel. Unfortunately, this then leaves us with a small contact patch for the left rear. This is preferred for small plate classes, or small dirt, or indoor tracks where you don't need a lot of left rear drive. On typical "momentum" type kart tracks, I feel that this small left rear does not give the kart enough forward drive from the center of the corner out, even in the restricted classes. The 10.7 X 5.50 or even better, the 11 X 6.00 is a better choice on a chassis needing more left rear drive from the center of the corner - out.
While comparisons with other brands of tires are often made, there is no doubt that the new Hoosier Tires are a whole new breed of tires. There are currently two constructions of sidewall, the CO1 and CO2. The CO1, I would say, most resemble a Burris Tire. I hate to stigmatize the CO2 tires with the Firestone comparison, but the CO2 sidewalls are similar and that's where that comparison stops. The Hoosiers have a much higher spring rate than Burris, and are more like a Maxxis Pink or Firestone YJF with sidewall & tread construction that is somewhere in between.
We measured the Hoosier D30 11 X 7.10 - 6 CO1 mounted with 8psi, measuring 34" C. on a 10 inch wheel, to have a spring rate of between 65 and 70 pounds. The belt, or webbing, in the tread of the tire is thicker. The center of the "tread" belt, or webbing, in the tire is also stiffer, much like a Maxxis, while the sidewall is just slightly softer than a Maxxis, and stiffer than a Burris. Sidewall construction isn't much different than Burris for the C01, but the tread is significantly stiffer. The combination of soft sidewall and natural rubber construction yield an ultra high grip , high sidebite tire without the use of preps and other chemical softeners. The shoulder area is somewhat thinner in rubber than the Burris SS tires and considerably less weight. They have a much more rounded shoulder area than the Burris and actually require less rubber to be removed from the shoulder area when cutting. One of the templates I have for cutting and truing light Burris 8.10's will nearly cut through the shoulder on the Hoosier, so I have had to make up some new templates for the Hoosier tires to be cut because of that.
Just looking at them stacked on side, 4 or 5 high, next to a stack of Burris, you will see what I mean...Burris tread section is very floppy and will collapse when stacking them more than 4 high on their sides. Hoosier, and others for that matter, can stack much higher.....This is also readily seen when you try to fold the tires for shipping. Not very scientific, I know, but it illustrates the point.
The newer CO2 construction offers a bit stiffer sidewall. I think this also attributes for better contact patch when loaded and will keep the tire from rolling under, or balling up, under high lateral loads and high grip race surfaces with low air pressure. Keep in mind that much of the development originated from 1/4 midgets which offer a much higher roll center and transfer weight much quicker to the right side. The stiffer tread should yeild a more solid contact patch and free the kart up in the center of the corner better. This may also attribute to why they do not cup when mounting like a Burris or Maxxis "Pink" typically does. Although the CO2 Hoosiers do have a stiffer spring rate than a Burris in the same compound, they are still significantly lower spring rate than a Maxxis which has had the tread softened (or prepped) down to an equal durometer reading. When comparing a Hoosier to a Maxxis, be careful to consider sidewall ratings moreso than the tread durometer. As we all know, noone runs an'08 or older Maxxis Ht3's right out of the box, they are all prepped down much lower in durometer to make them really work well. If a Maxxis"Pink" is the hot ticket at your track, you might consider the CO2 construction tires such as the RD35, D40A, or D60A series Hoosier tires as an alternative, as they have a slightly higher carcass / sidewall construction, and then prep the surface down much the same way you do with a Maxxis tire on the tread only.
Hoosier tires also have more natural rubber, or resin, in them, which gives them a particularly "sticky or oily" feel when new, (much like a freshly prepped tire). This is especially true when you cut or grind on them. Hoosier has always been a leader in rubber mixes and compound developments with just the right blend of natural and synthetic rubbers, and I'm certain that their kart tire line will be just what the racers are looking for. If you are running at a track or series where there is no prep and/or no cutting allowed, then Hoosier will be the hands down choice over all other brands. If you absolutely must run prep on your Hoosiers, certain compounds are more conducive to doing so. Ie, the RD35, D40A and D60A are great prep candidates. When prepping Hoosiers, use about half of the chemical that you would normally use in Firestone or Maxxis. They prep very similar to a Vega.
One of the biggest problems guys are having when sizing the new Hoosier tires is your method of mounting. For years, we have all used tire bands to help squeeze the bead out onto the wide rims that we are currently using in karting. For some other brands, it has been important to squeeze the band down very tightly on the tire to keep it from stretching to an unusable size. Ie, a Burris tire stretches very easily and without using a tire band to constrict the growth, you can easily have a 36" tire that is pretty much worthless to today's racing standards. Hoosier tires are very difficult to stretch. The natural rubber content and construction of the tires give them a great elastic "memory" (similar to that of chromemoly steel when bending tubing.) You can temporarily stretch a Hoosier tire, but they invariably find their way back to a prior size. For that reason, it is VERY important that you mount and size your tires correctly the FIRST time.
Here is what I do: Using a standard tire band (I personally use, and sell >>LINK<< a BeadMaster.) AVOID using a tire band that does not cover the entire width of the tire. That is, it must be at least 12" wide in my opinion to work correctly. Also, do NOT use ratchet tie down or thin gauge tire bands. This will only lead to unintentional cambering of the tire tread or cupping of the center. Buy a GOOD tire band and your investment will pay off with savings over mismounted tires. The Beadmaster tire band can be run down to any size you prefer on the Hoosiers, but be careful as they do not stretch much after mounting! I prefer to take a tape measure and wrap around the outside of the BeadMaster and come up with a measurement that is approximately 3/4" larger than I want the actual tire to measure. This doesn't work everytime, (probably 90%), but it sure does cut down on the big mistakes. Like all tire brands, some tires take quite a bit of air PSI to bead out, while others will take very low PSI. How the tire stretches is determined by how much psi it took the first time to bead the tire out. You MUST use a good tire lube to bead the tire. Lube well with dish detergent, or similar soap. Do NOT use WD 40 or other petroleum products. I have had success with more expensive and commercially available tire goo, but it's not necessary unless you're mounting a tire on a really wide wheel (ie 5.50 on an 8 3/4" wheel.) Inflate the tire with the valve core removed until it seats out on the bead, then immediately remove the air chuck from the tire and release the air. Remove the tire band, inflate the tire to race pressure and measure. This will be the "natural memory" size of the tire for a long time to come, so hopefully you have got it right.
Resizing the tires requires heat -- I use a hot box if I need to resize a tire after mounting, although I try the best I can to get it right the very first time. These tires have a very elastic memory and like I wrote earlier, you may grow a tire temporarily, but it will find its way back down to the previous size if not stretched with air and heat.
IF you need to "grow" / stretch the tire to make it larger, you can try overinflating the tire and sitting it in the sun, or more successfully, warming the tire in a hot box. (Slightly - not baking it!) Go a little at a time so as to not ruin the tire and make it an unusable size. A method that works well for me is to inflate the tire 1/2" larger than the final size that I want the tire to roll out, and then place it in a pre-heated hot box set at 130* for 20 minutes. Remove the tire from the hot box and let it cool naturally. Drop to your desired racing pressure AFTER the tire is cooled to room temperature. Wait a minimum of 15 minutes, then take another circumference measurement. Again, it's always better to err on the side of stretching too little. If you are having a lot of trouble sizing the tires, or need to stretch it a bunch, apply more air presure to stretch the tire larger, more heat, more time in the hot box, then when you remove the tire from the hot box, instead of allowing it to cool gradually, "shock" the tire by completely immersing it in a cooler filled with ice water.
As for shrinking the tires, that's even more difficult. You can place the tire in the hot box for a couple hours at race pressure, then rapidly deflate the tire while pouring ice water over the entire tire (or submersing it in a cooler of ice water.) Once flat, you can place it in a freezer for a few hours. Of course, heat and extreme cold temperatures should be avoided as much as possible. This is a last resort!
There has been some grumbling from racers as to the sizing of the tires and having them to roll out too small or even cupping in the center of the tread.
I think that a lot of guys are simply inexperienced at mounting and sizing Hoosier tires, and are cranking down the tire mounting band, beading the tire out, then letting the air out, then refilling with air and measuring just as they might another brand. That might work with some other brands of tires, ie Burris, that you just about have to crank the tire band all the way down, to get the right sides to come out 34". BUT, with a Hoosier, if you run a tire mounting band way down, you'll end up with very unusable tire sizes and very difficult to resize tires. Again, the C02 carcass is considerably better about this, but you still need to be careful when mounting them. I have had very few problems mounting and sizing the current Hoosiers. Here's my suggestion: Only wind the tire band down to a size 1/2 to 3/4 inch bigger on the O.D. than the desired tire circumference. IE, if you run a tape measure around the OD of the tire band itself, it should measure 34 1/2 to 34 3/4" if you want to end up with a 34" tire. On our beadmaster that we use here in the shop, I wrap my tape measure around the outside of the Beadmaster itself to 3/4" larger than the desired tire size. This has worked 95% of the time for me here in the shop (even on the older casing tires), and we've mounted hundreds of them.
As far as the tire tread cupping; again, make sure you are mounting them with a full coverage tire band around the circumference, not just the center of the tire or with a ratchet tie down style tire band. I've seen some thin gauge tire bands with a ratchet tie down around the middle that allow the edges of the tire to grow more than the middle. I'm not saying this always happens and with every other brand, but it may hopefully help someone else reading this from making a similar mistake.
If indeed the tire is cupped, you can try to over inflate the tire and heat it up in a hot box, (note, Hoosier would never recommend this due to liabilities, etc), but you can give it a try (just be very careful and use some common sense).If you are trying to remove some of the "dip" that is in the "wide" CO2 generation tires, you would do better to over-inflate the tire, then heat just the center, or dip, of the tread as you rotate the tire slowely, evenly distributing the heat. I find this very useful before cutting the tire, so that we're getting a more even tread thickness across the contact patch.
Tire cutting & Prep
Can you have the new Hoosier Tires cut on a tire cutting machine and is it absolutely necessary? First, cutting a tire is never "necessary." It is more "advantageous" on medium to high bite surfaces, and does less to again speed on very low to no bite surfaces. From my experience and many whom we've cut tires for, 90% of the time a cut tire will be faster from a 40 durometer tire on up. For very soft durometer tires, it is rare to see a big advantage in having the tires cut. Generally, soft tires are for low to no bite track surfaces that don't induce heat or are abrasive on the tires. If you feel that cutting soft tires would be an advantage for your application, have them professionally cut. Please contact us for all your cutting and refinishing of Hoosier tires. With several years of experience cutting soft tires, we can get the finish you need to make these tires work best. If you plan to cut them yourself, I suggest that you run them for a night or two, then cut them if you really want to. Actually, you won't need to cut much - they mount up pretty nice and even across the contact patch if mounted properly. There is no heavy shoulder to cut off either. I've cut many sets here in the shop; you need to have an experienced tire cutter that knows all the tricks to cutting fresh rubber tires to do the job right and some special bits while turning the tire at just the right speed. A rotary cutting blade also works much better than the standard lathe tooling found on most tire machines. Doing the softer compounds - D10, D20, etc on a lathe style tire cutter with a rigid cutting blade is tough at best. The tires are very oil laden rubber and gum up and gouge easily. Yes, you can freeze them, but I can't understand for the life of me why you would take a tire, lower the temperature to that of freezing or lower to cut it. How can it possibly be the same "roundness" after it is raised to optimal racing temperatures? A rotating cutter blade looks like the way to go to cut soft natural rubber tires - Yep, against my better judgement, I've tried freezing them before cutting too. It helps, but isn't the final answer. I've had more success spraying the tires with Windex, and using a special cutting bit which help cut smoothly without gouging. For tires measuring harder than 40 durometer, cutting seems even more advantageous. You do not need to cut a lot of rubber off of the tires, just enough to put a contour into them. Generally, we cut D30A's and harder to .050"....not surprisingly, very similarly to the way we cut a Burris 33A or Maxxis Pink.
Another interesting feature to note is the overall "UNCUT" weight of the tire compared to same sizes in other brands.
Hoosier D20 11X7.10-6 = 1505 grams
Burris SS-22 11X8.10-6 = 1540 g.
Maxxis DK3 12X8.00-6 = 1560 g.
That's up to 50 grams less weight in the tire alone! Remember, more importantly, that's less rotating mass!
Bottom line, no matter how good the tires are, you can't keep guys from cutting on them, or doping them up with whatever trick tire prep they come up with next. Unfortunately, that's just part of the game anymore. As far as tire prep goes.....if you are used to prepping other brand tires, the same preps generally have the same effect. With all of the resin and moisture content of the fresher Hoosier rubber, prep is not "as" necessary. With all the resin in these tires, they really don't absorb, or need, much in the way of a saturating prep. When using harsh preps: only use them as a surface prep, do not "saturate" the tire from the inside out with harsh preps. Avoid contact with the sidewalls, and definitely do not place harsh treatments inside the tire, as this will damage the integrity of the tire itself, (added per Hoosier corporate suggestion). Honestly, we have internally prepped with fine results, just use common sense when choosing an inside prep. Obviously "Goat P", as it is commonly referred to, is NOT a good choice for internal prepping. Any harsh prep, for that matter, should be avoided. If you are using any creosote based prep, you're probably dealing with a chassis problem and trying to band aid fix it with gluing the kart to the track. Creosote based preps work to really stick the tires to the track when nothing else will work. Generally, though, creo preps are WAY too harsh and stick the kart too well when dealing with Hoosier tires unless the track is wet, cold and slimey. As well, we've seen some crystallization of creosote based prep on the tread of the tire if prepped too long before hitting the track. Use creo only as a surface prep in my opinion and as a last resort, as it is really hard on the tire rubber itself.. We've had a lot of success using much less harsh chemicals. We internally prep with our Pink Panther tire conditioner which will soften the tire very little, but keep it moist through many heat cycles. Rather than prolonged soaking or lengthy hot box treating, you may prefer to give the tire a quick coat of prep prior to going to the grid with Hoosiers. Personally, I use a light prep coat (right before you hit the track) of Pink Panther to get the tire to "take off" on the start a little better when you need a little extra "bite" and not so much to reduce the durometer (or hardness) of the tire...I've also used Hot Lap II and Victory Lap by Pro Blend, LS3 (which we also sell) by Josh Philpott, Trackside fire by Palmetto, and Black Max with success on dry slick tracks when you need more bite. For right side tires, you might try 3 ounces of Hot Lap II as an inside rotisserie prep, then hit the tread with Victory Lap. Use 2 ounces inside left side tires. 9 times out of 10 though, I use Pink Panther to soften and condition the rubber inside AND out. I have also gotten some positive feedback on the Trac Tac product line, but you'll need to use more of it to get desired results. Their grape, black sand, and mint seem best. Their blue tire cleaner is excellent. Pro Blend also offers an excellent tire surface cleaner. I typically clean my tires with "Mean Green Tire Clean" (available from us), then open the pores of the rubber to deep clean the tread with Green Dragon Grip, (an environmentally friendly product that we also offer), which pulls dirt and prep from the surface of the tire only. If you use Simple Green concentrate, Orange Blast, or any other household cleaner/degreaser: be sure to rinse the tires extremely well with clear water after you have cleaned them and be certain to get any residue off the surface before applying any further prep. The pure orange oil concentrate in Orange Blast makes the tires tacky to the touch, but doesn't penetrate the surface of the tire. GoJo white hand cleaner (no pumice) also works nicely, but is a bit messy and time consuming to use. I've heard of guys using that foaming one touch tire cleaner as well. Honestly, I have not tried that either, and I would be concerned about the "shine" element that it gives the tire once it dries. I've even heard of guys using hair spray as prep! Trust me, there's a lot of different prep ideas out there. I just try to let people know what has worked for us personally. Several customers that are more accustomed to running Maxxis and Firestone tires have shared success from using "Atomic Punch", "Acrysol", "Speedy 500", "Wintergreen", Pine Tar", etc etc.....Here's what we stock and sell: Pink Panther (Thick formula and Original), Mean Green Tire Clean, Green Dragon Grip, Speedy 500, Acrysol, Gold Flash, Black Gold, Black Max. LS1, LS2, LS3, LS4. All have been used sucessfully and in a variety of combinations.
I try to avoid grinding the tires...it seems to make them too oily and sticky on the surface, then by the time you hit the race track, they are like riding on marbles. Then, it takes a few laps for them to come back in. I think the heat from grinding is hurting the tire more than helping it. Even when I cut them here on the lathe I have seen that too much heat will make them gummy right on the surface. A sharp course wood rasp works better at the track I think - or something that won't introduce heat into the surface of the rubber. I've also used a sanding wheel on the grinder trying not to introduce heat into the tire. Sanding the tires with an orbital sander and 80 grit paper wheel does a nice job and makes the tires fresh and tacky again without getting too much heat in them. When we refinish Hoosier tires, or any brand for that matter, we use a belt sander and sand down to the finish we desire, much like you would with wood; being very careful not to get the rubber too hot. Again, a few shots of Ammonia free Windex will aid in this process. For low bite tracks, sand the tires initially with 50 grit at a 30* angle, then go back over them with 120 grit to get a "plateau honed" finish very similar to that of an engine cylinder wall. We will then "needle" the tires to open up the rubber even more. (this is what we refer to as our "fuzzy" option that is best suited for low to no bite tracks that have little abrasion to them.)For high bite track surfaces, we generally will finish the tire with a 80 grit belt, then go back over it with 120 or even 240 grit. Anymore, we almost always needle the tires before they leave the shop.
Current dirt compounds are D10A, D20A, D30A, RD35, D40A, D50, & D60A. The RD35 is a 2010 replacement for the existing RD30 tire and is meant to be a Vega competitive tire. Unfortunately, I feel that left the best Burris competitive tire (the RD30) left out of the current line-up. This void was filled when the new D30A was introduced. The RD35 has been a great tire for 50d applications right out of the wrapper, or it can be prepped down to run with Vegas on wet tracks. The D30A is the Burris SS33A equivalent, and really shines on open tire tracks where the Burris 33's are prevalent. The D60A compound is the ticket for the high bite red clay tracks of the deep south and for those calcium laden or sealed dirtphalt tracks that have maximum grip where Firestones are the norm. The D60A compound is a result of extensive testing and our requesting of Hoosier to produce a tire with a better wear characteristic for the southern high grip clay tracks where the Maxxis HT3 or FirestoneYJF is the prevailing tire. The D60A is an attempt to compete with the Firestone high bite applications. The D60A is intended to compete with the YJF Firestone right side tires on tracks with a tremendous amount of bite. Testing and actual competition will tell if this tire will be what we need inthis application. The D50 is based off the rubber used so successfully in Hoosier's D55 dirt late model tire that dominates the southern stock car and dirt late model scene. Thi smakes the D50 a good "spec" tire because of it's durability. Before the D50 was available, a few racers had been using the A40 pavement tire with some success as well. The "prefix" - A (asphalt designation) series tires have a slightly higher spring rate and were the choice of racers who got accustomed to them early in their development, or desire a freer chassis. The D60A incorporates the newer CO2 casing which, I think, will eventually replace the D50 for southern tracks with plenty of bite. The D50 is primarily used as a spec tire for series or tracks wanting to reduce tire costs to the racers. karting to
The RD35, D40A, and D60A are all prep friendly and are preferred on tracks that build a lot of tire temperatures. The RD30 was a great alternative to the older and out of production SS-33 Burris tires, and also do well on moist tracks where the Vega tires are successful. The newer version, RD35, can be prepped down even more easily to the teens and low twenties where prepped Vegas are typically fast. Likewise, specifically, the newer C02 sidewall construction tires with a stiffer spring rate have really helped the Hoosier tire line get noticed in the deep south, where Maxxis HT-3 "low rubber" thin treads and now the "wides" or "Pinks" are popular. The D40A is a great substitute for the prepped down Maxxis HT-3 tires that are fast on low to medium bite tracks down south. The D60A is a great substitute on tracks where you need an unprepped Maxxis or prepped 'Stones are fast. It fits nicely in between the two conditions, making it a logical choice on Maxxis type tracks with medium high grip and a tire in the mid to upper 50's durometer.
Some pavement racers have found early success with the 1/4 midget pavement tires: A30, A40, & A50, although I've done no official tire testing on the karting line of asphalt tires. The A30 (multi-compound qualifying tire) has been dropped from production, and the A50 has been replaced with a more wear resistant A55. These tire are most similar to the Bridgestone/Firestone line-up.
On a durometer, the Hoosier dirt tires' natural rubber compounds are very similar to the Burris. D10 = SS11, D20 = SS22...etc, etc.While the durometer numbers measure relative softness of the surface of the tire, please use care when selecting the proper compound for your application. Because the Hoosier tires have more natural rubber resin in them than other brands, they typically have more aggressive traction than a similar duromer tire of another brand. Consensus is that the tires have so much natural rubber in them (and are so fresh from the factory - ie they haven't been lying around in a warehouse, export compound, or container ship for months), that the durometer numbers are a little misleading as far as wear characteristics. For abrasive track surfaces that build excessive tire temperatures, we're recommending using one step harder (typically 10-15 durometer points) Hoosier than Burris, Maxxis, Vega or other brands that have been prepped to a similar durometer. IE...if you are currently using Burris SS-22 or SS-33.....try the Hoosier D30A, (instead of the compound equivalent D20). Likewise, if you have prepped a Maxxis HT-3 down to 45 durometer, consider using a Hoosier RD35 as a replacement. The natural rubber heats up more easily and wears more aggressively than sythetic rubber, which tends to be stronger and more durable. Hoosiers have been faster, but really build heat and wear fast on abrasive surfaces. Here in the midwest, on organic black dirt tracks, we still recommend going with as soft of tire as possible while keeping your tire temps under 130*.
Below is a chart of durometer numbers measured on OUR Intercomp durometer....Keep in mind that your durometer may measure differently (higher or lower) but can be used as a good baseline for comparison.
|Hoosier D10A = 34d||Burris SS-11 = 34-36d|
|Hoosier D20A = 45d||Burris SS-22 = 40-42d|
|RD30, D30A = 50-52d||Burris SS-33 = 52-55d, SS-33A = 56d, B33A = 52d|
|Hoosier RD35 = 50d||Maxxis Pink = 56-58d, Vegas MAS|
|Hoosier D40A = 58-60d||Burris SS-B44 = 68d|
|Hoosier D50 = 70d||Burris SS-55 = 75d|
|Hoosier D60a = 63-65d||Firestone YJF Maxxis DK-3 = 65d|
|Hoosier A30A = 52d||Maxxis '08 thin HT-3 = 70-72d: Maxxis '09-'11 thin & wides "Pinks"=56-58d|
|Hoosier A40A = 58d||Maxxis HG-3 = 78d|
|Hoosier R50 = 70d||Firestone YGF = 60d YJF = 68d|
|Hoosier R55 = 60d||Dunlop DBS = 60d|
|Hoosier R60 = 65d|
Our recommendations on compounds for your application: My recommendation is to use the same compound on all four corners of the car...you could go softer on the left front - it doesn't really matter, you never load it enough in oval racing to hurt it anyways. My thinking is, if you run the same compound all around, it makes it easier to tell what your chassis is doing by monitoring tire temps. If one corner is >30* more than other corners, then it is doing too much of the work...ie, if the right rear is greater than 30* above the left rear, then you need more cross in the car to work the left rear more equally to the right rear. Most chassis manufacturers will recommend same compounds all around for just this reason...it helps diagnose a potential chassis problem. Some competitors are finding they need to run a harder left rear than right rear on their chassis, specifically when running very high cross (ie 64% and up.) Personally, I don't see the reason to run such high cross in a low vcg kart chassis, but for some folks, that's what works best. Several popular chassis set-ups today recommend starting at 70% cross! Now that just may work in the Carolinas where they "circle track" race, but when you "oval track" race like much of the rest of the country, that set-up is a real handful to drive and make work successfully. When tracks are cool and moist, that's when you might run softer left sides, OR on real small tight radius cornered tracks. We have successfully used very soft tires on tracks with a lot of dust covering the track surface as well. If the surface is not clean, the tires will not build sufficient heat, and you can run a softer compound to take advantage of this. Of course, cutting a few grooves (if allowed) or siping the tires will also work, but will also increase tire temps. With an animal, limited, or other big motor application, you could probably get away with it most nights because you are out of the throttle so much longer in the corners than with a stocker. Also, the higher mph will help cool the tires down the straights....keep in mind, higher entry speeds = more centrifugal force in the corner...thus loading the right side tires harder too.
Rule of thumb: When the track surface temperature is 75* or above, use one step harder Hoosier tire than the equivalent in the synthetic brand X. In other words, if you are currently using Burris SS22's or 33's, choose the Hoosier RD35 as a direct replacement. If you are currently running Maxxis prepped down to 50 or lower, use the Hoosier RD35. If you are prepping Maxxis to 50 or higher, consider the Hoosier D40A.
For wheels, go with 10" right sides, 6 1/2" left front, and anything from 7 1/4 to 8 3/4 left rear to make the stagger you want. Hoosier offers a larger 11.0 left rear that rolls out better on the 8 1/2" like we are used to.
Much of the information on this page is due to the extensive track testing we've been able to do personally over the last four years. I've personally logged more seat time in a kart in one year than I have in the last 5 or 6 combined! A quick resume of myself: A 30 year veteran of competitive kart racing, 15 years campaigning a World of Outlaws sprint car, 22 years owning a sucessful kart shop, designing and manufacturing our own chassis, building national winning engines, all the while, watching and participating as our sport evolves. While tire testing is certainly not as fun as actual racing, it does provide it's own challenges. We have also done testing on several different customers' chassis thus far (including, but not limited to: Seraph, Icon, Phenom, Nemesis, Vector AO2, Vector DO, Desperado, Avenger, Centerforce & Excentric.) All testing was done on our own as well as customers' chassis that had their karts rolling good before we put them on the Hoosiers. We made slight adjustments to some and little to none to others. We've seen some real promise in the Hoosier line. The tires have also shown real speed at certain tracks. We have some great results from down south on dirtphalt (sealed) dirt tracks, the upper midwest, southwest, and from the northeast part of the country. Likewise, some tracks were not conducive to the tires and whatever was fastest there previously were still fast against our Hoosier tires. I think you'll see that at many tracks. There will be a preffered brand or prep or chassis, or whatever. If you're not sure what works best in your area, check with your local dealer or give us a call. Even though we may not be local to you, we have probably been to your track or one near you through our many years of kart and sprint car racing, and have a pretty thorough understanding of the dirt composite that your track is made up of..
Local Tire testing Burris Vs Hoosier: Here in the midwest, Hoosier has shown to be faster than Burris, but you have to be patient with them and adjust the chassis to accommodate the difference in the tires. We typically widen the chassis to free it up more than a typical Burris set-up, and run more air pressure. No differently than when you change any other aspect of the chassis. You can't just change one variable and make a conclusion. For instance, when we do pipe and cam testing on an engine, seldom do we simply change a cam and find horsepower gains. But if we work with other tuning points of the motor, we can find where a new cam likes a particular pipe, or carburetor throttle shaft, ignition timing, etc. The same is going to be true with your tires. You can't just bolt them on to your current Burris, Firestone, or Maxxis set-up and expect the same results when the tires are constructed so differently. On a sticky (moist) race surface, they seem to lock the car down too much and you have to free the chassis up even more than you normally would on Burris. When the track goes dry slick or dusty, they seem quite a bit faster than Burris, but then the compound and tire temps become an issue. For one, Hoosier tires come in quick and stay fast (even without tire prep!) This is great news for tracks with a "no prep" policy. Tire temps build quick, then stabilize. Our midwest testing has been limited to midwest loose black organic dirt, where Burris tires are the current hot ticket and are typically a track "spec" tire. On moist tracks, the softer tires like the D10A and D20A really go well for 5 or 6 laps, then when typically a soft compound tire gets heat saturated and starts to slow down, the Hoosiers maintained good lap times. They do wear considerably more however. Once the moisture is gone from the track, the RD30 or RD35 tires are even better, I think in comparison to the Burris SS, SS-A, and BSS tires. One problem with running the Burris tires the last several years (post D25 / D4 days), is that the Burris tires would "seal up" under a caution and would take a lap or two to refire under green flag conditions. The Hoosier tires kept consistent lap times even after a cool down lap or two, and refired immediately on the restarts. This is great news to the drivers especially, because they know their kart is going to stick when they go back to green flag racing entering turn one. We ran a 5 lap green session, followed by 2 yellow flag cool down laps, then 3 more green flag laps. We tried to simulate a typical heat race scenario. The Hoosier RD30's were consistently faster on the restarts, and times didn't fall off as the tire built temperature. Again, our testing was done here in the midwest on organic dirt and tire temps don't get all that warm...BUT, it did prove that the soft compound Hoosier tire is good over longer runs. Consistent lap times are what it's all about. Typically, you can bolt on a set of super soft grabbers and go fast for a couple laps, but you give up time later in the race when the tire becomes heat saturated. The RD series Hoosiers seem to keep on turning good lap times throughout the race but are definitely slower when they become heat saturated. Hoosier natural rubber D series tires seem to be very sensitive to temperature as far as "when" they start to drop off. Hoosier's seem to like a little lower tire temps for optimum performance than other brands. We found that while most other manufacturer's "non-prepped" tires seem to have the best adhesion at around 130*, Hoosiers will work better at 110*. Once they get beyond the 110*, you need to choose a harder compound so that lap times will not drop off. The harder compounds like the D20 or RD30 were a little slower to take off when they were cold, but really came on later in the race, producing our best lap times yet. For this test, we didn't try cutting or prepping the tires, as we were trying to test the tires, NOT the prep. With a light coat of tire prep such as Pink Panther, the RD30's, were the tire of choice here in the midwest. (update) Now that the RD35 has been introduced, we are even happier with it's results on medium bite tracks calling for a 50+d tire where Burris SS33A's are the norm. Hoosier is currently develping a new tire, D30A, to replace the RD30 and we look forward to it's testing versus the Burris 33's.
Hoosier 8.10 Test: We recently tested the 8.10 Hoosier right side tires versus the 7.10's and here's what we found:
Mounting the tire was the same as any other, but you need to keep your tire mounting band a little tighter than with the 8.10's to keep the size down. Remember, these tires are a 35" casing NOT 34", so we are wanting to keep them on the small side. I like to run my chassis with 34" right side tires, so we mounted the new 8.10's accordingly (see tire mounting instructions above on this page) on 10 inch wide wheels. On a 68* morning with a track surface temperature of 58* to start off with, the D20's were very fast. They build heat extremely fast and over a 10 lap heat simulation test were coming off the track at 120* tire temp. There is a fairly smooth gradient of tire temp across the surface of the tire, with the inside edge being the highest reading (due to 3/4" stagger in the rear of the chassis). We ran under nearly the same conditions, (61* track temp), and lap times started dropping after lap 12 of a second test session (this time being 20 laps). This is great, considering most every other brand drops much sooner. When the tires do get heat saturated (130*+), they really slow down though, so it is important to remember to keep your tires under you (as the pavement guys say). We played with tire pressures some and found that with a little more psi, we could free the kart up and help the tire temps a little, but they still built up a little too high late in the run. We took a short break for some engine maintenance, etc, and went back out with the track temperature now increasing to 65* and ambient air temp to 75*. Now the D20s were good for 10 laps before they started dropping off. We really wanted to try some D30s, but 20's were all we could get ahold of for this test. I really think the 30's would have come on much better as the track temperature kept increasing under the afternoon sun. We lost some moisture in the track as well, which would have also led us to change to the D30's next. By the time the track temp reached 70*, the 20's started really dropping off quick. We then started playing with some preps and had some fun with qualifying set-ups and two or three lap tests, which could be a whole other article. Of the 6 tire preps that we brought with us, Pink Panther had the best results for a two lap blast around the track. Again, surface prep the tire only. Do NOT saturate these Hoosier tires in prep. Prep is a good way to get a harder compound tire to take off at the beginning of a race, but isn't intended to be raced on throughout the entire race. Most of the guys running synthetic rubber tires, Maxxis, etal, are so used to rotisserie prepping the tires for deep saturation because they are basically racing on the prep, rather than on rubber.
In a seperate 8.10 VS 7.10 test: We concluded that on high speed race tracks with long straights and sweeping corners, that the 7.10 tire is still the tire of choice on the right side of a stocker. Limiteds, Animals, and bigger HP engine classes will still want to run the 8.10 tire. While the 8.10 would run slightly lower tire temps over the same runs, the 7.10's consistently provided better lap times. My recommendation for high cross set-ups and big sweeping momentum ovals is to run the 7.10's on the right side of the chassis and the 10.5 or the larger 10.7 (6.00) left rear. For shorter ovals and midwest racing in general, you might consider an 8.10 right rear and 7.10 right front. My feeling is that the rolling resistance of the wider tire gives up any advantage of freeing up the right front on a high cross set-up. For short little bull ring tracks, or tracks that stay wet / damp, you will want to run the Hoosier 8.10's on both the right sides.
D40 VS D50 test: In trying to develop a tire to compete with the prepped HT3 Maxxis in the southern states, we looked at testing some D40 and D50 Hoosiers. Although the harder compound D50 still takes off good, the D40 may be a better choice if you're not getting enough temp in the tires. We've sent both 40's & 50's to the deep south...depends on the track and the abrasiveness as well as track temperature. We've also sold some A-series tires with success to the same area...obviously some tracks are more abrasive than others. (update) In the spring '07, Hoosier introduced their newly developed D40-A, which is a better alternative for those of you on Maxxis T-3 tires. The D40-A is a "tougher" blend of rubbers, and is better suited for prep.(update) Again in 201, the D40A was revamped to be a wider profile casing along with the new D60A tire to compete with the Maxxis Pinks and Firestones on medium to high grip surfaces.
Our original test went like this: First out were the D40 tires, very fast on red clay with moisture, but as the moisture goes away, and it does go away quick in the Carolinas, the track gets abrasive and the tire slows down. On abrasive surfaces they tend to slow down after the first few laps. The D50s are more durable and hold lap times better, but are also a higher durometer and take a while to get going (espeially on wet track surfaces), so they really need a prep to get them to fire and have bite for the first 3 or 4 laps. On wet, the 40's are awesome, but as soon as your tracks go hard and slick, the 40's slow down and lap times drop off dramatically. We're working on that problem currently. Some guys are still real fast on them, others are struggling. My personal thought is that the rubber is not "tough" enough for high abrasive surfaces in the D40s, hence the develpment of the D40A with C02 casing.
Personally I really like the D40, but for longer races, or abrasive surfaces, it will go away late in the race, and something better is needed. Anything above 130* tire temp really starts hurting the lap times and the tire - (although the tire wears nicely, even with excess heat.)
Next we tried some D50's once our times fell off on the now dry track. The D50 is developed from the same "recipe" of rubber as the dirt late model D55 tire that works good in the deep south and on red clay. This tire was developed after our asking for a tire that was more "punishable" for down south "dirtphault" racing. The D50 feels just like a Maxxis on wet....not fast, but as the track starts to come around and get bitey, the D50 really comes in. Even on a dry abrasive track, the D50 takes a while to get going, but then just keeps pulling and doesn't seal up on a yellow like the other brands that have to be prepped to death just to make them work. If you want the 50 to take off a little better, ONLY surface prep it. Pink Panther seems to work best, but to each their own. I know Hoosier corporate doesn't want anyone to prep their tires...but prep has become a necessary evil these days in karting. One coat of Pink Panther 10 - 15 minutes before hitting the track and the D50 will work more like a 40 but tougher on longer heat induced runs.(update) With the advent of the D60A tires, the D50 is no longer a stockign tire for us. Some tracks continue to use this as a spec tire, but we feel that the current (2010) D60A tire is much superior in performance.
Hoosier Vs Maxxis test:With the popularity of the Maxxis HT3 thin blue in the southern states, we set out to do some comparison testing of the new Hoosiers to the HT3. We know that a straight comparison for unprepped tires would be completely useless at this point, since few people actually run Maxxis unprepped. Our testing was done between prepped Maxxis and unprepped Hoosiers first. The amount of prep and durometer level of your Maxxis HT3's will determine which Hoosier will be equivalent. For most southern racers currently running HT3's, we've been sending out D-40 and D-50. Here in the midwest, HT3 users generally prep to a softer 55 durometer or less. With some moisture in the track, the Hoosiers were considerable faster, 2- 3 tenths...as soon as the track tacked up and got aggressive on the rubber, the prepped Maxxis were faster by a tenth or more. Again, the Hoosier D40 were faster for the first 2 or 3 laps, then started falling off...by lap 8 of a 10 lap run, they were off by a full tenth from their starting lap times. Heat was definitely an issue as the tire builds heat very quickly on aggressive rubber laden tracks. Once the tire meets it's temperature saturation point, you can physically (seat of the pants) feel the tire slow down. The tire still has tons of grip, which therein lies the problem. Rolling down the straight away, it feels like the tire has a million suction cups grabbing the track surface instead of just rolling on top and helping to cool the tire. If you make a cool down lap or two (simulate a yellow flag), the tire is really impressive on the restarts compared to a prepped Maxxis. We tried D50's next, thinking we could control the tire temps better, and although the tire performed better over the long run, it still fell off just a bit, and now we lost our first few lap advantage. Remember, these are unprepped Hoosiers vs properly prepped Maxxis. With a light, surface prep only, of Pink Panther on the Hoosier D50s, we got the better first few lap times back again, but still the car lost straightaway speed. Working with the chassis some more, we freed up the car enough to roll the corners just as fast as on the Maxxis HT3's, but our straight away speeds and engine rpm were still down just a bit...now slightly less than a tenth. We would have liked to tested some more with some of the new D-40A compound tires, which were developed specifically to compete with the T3 market, as some of our southern customers had reported success with these, but we simply ran out of time and tires. When a little bit of dew started setting in on the track by the end of the testing day, the Hoosiers really came on again. The dew certainly lessened the grip in the track for a few laps before it went back to being aggressive on the tires again.
Conclusion of the prepped Maxxis HT3 vs Hoosier D40 & D50: On very low grip tracks, the Hoosiers are generally faster, on high grip tracks, the Hoosiers are faster only for the first few laps, then the prepped Maxxis come on.
One thing to remember....we are NOT testing preps...but chose to use prepped T3's because that's how everyone runs them. Bottom line is that the Hoosiers have a lot more grip to them even without prep. With WKA and other sanctioning bodies and tracks looking to ban or limit preps, Hoosier could easily out-perform any unprepped Maxxis tire on a moist track surfaces similar to when Vegas are prevalent.
(update) Hoosier Vs. Maxxis revisted: We recently got to test the D40A and D60 Hoosiers with the new and improved CO2 casing and found that they are much more compatible with the Maxxis tires. They also respond nicely to most of the harsher preps commonly used on Maxxis.We got the D40A's really rolling with Hot Laps II rolled internally and Pink Panther as a surface prep. We felt that the Pink Panther was the prep of choice on dry or dusty racing surfaces, but also found that Pink Panther works just as well if there is ANY moisture at all in the track surface (especially after the sun goes down). This is good news to those of you who have easily ruined a set of tires with "goat pee" or other harsh chemical preps that are typically used on wet, cool or damp tracks. The typical Goat Pee, Creosote, Acrysol, Speedy 500, Wintergreen, etc, all worked decently, we just felt they were a little too aggressive with the Hoosier tire. We also used Gold Flash, BlackFlash, and Black Max to some success, but still felt the best results were with the Pink Panther prep.(update) Hoosier has developed a newer version of the popular D60, with the CO2 casing calling it a D60A. This tire has been awesome every time that we have used it or suggested it to our customers. It takes abuse and keeps on rolling on high grip tracks where the Maxxis T3 Pink at a harder durometer, 60+d, have been fast.
Pricing (all prices quoted MSRP) will be very similar to other brands....
$50 for 10 X 4.50, $52 for 10 X 5.50, $52 for 10.5 X 5.50, $52 for the 11 X 6.00, $58 for 11 X 7.10, and $62 for 11 X 8.10.
A complete set (2 - 8.10's, 1 - 5.00, and 1 - 6.0) retails for around $225
A complete set (mounted on DWT (Douglas) Q+ machined true wheels, balanced, and sized to order) approx. $435
Professional cutting, finishing, and prepping extra. Please contact us for a quote.
prices subject to change without notice
What if my Track has a Spec Tire rule?
I previously responded to a post on a popular karting forum. Here is my response in it's entirety:
kart racer:..."most tracks are burris tire rule so why buy them hoosier tires"
BCarlson: "Following that logic...Why vote?
I say, Let the racers decide which tires they want to run. Right now Hoosiers are faster AND less expensive. Nothing against tire rules, if that's what the majority of the racers want. The problem arises when tire rules are decided by a minority of the racers or a promoter, without the input of their racers / paying customers. Another problem is that spec tire rules are often implemented that benefit only a select few racers. When a sponsor mandates the use of their product at a track or series, essentially they are guaranteeing a market for their product. Whether we're talking about a tire rule, or a homologated engine or chassis, the sponsoring company generally gives the track/series cash, coupons, or product to reward the racers who have supported that particular track/series and purchased their product. Unfortunately, there's never enough rewards to go around. Generally only a few select racers reap the benefits of these rewards programs, and they're the guys who are already winning. This serves as no benefit to the low dollar guys whatsoever. What you need to do, as a racer, is to ask your track, club, or series..."What exactly IS your rewards program?" "What can I personally expect to receive as a direct benefit from this rule?" "Why was a spec tire rule instituted?" "Who was asked for their input before this decision was made?" "Was a vote taken by the racers and was the rule instituted as a result of that vote?" An honest promoter or track will have no problem explaining their tire deal in great detail, or their sponsor's intentions. Regretfully though, few tracks will publish this information in public, or right on their website. After asking a few questions, now, at least you know what to expect. If the reward is for the top 2 or 3 in each class to receive a coupon towards the purchase of the sponsor's product, then you have to consider if you are good enough to qualify for this reward. If you are typically a middle of the pack runner and do not expect to finish in the top three of your points, then don't expect to receive anything from this mandated rule. If you're competitive week in and week out, then a tire rule will not likely affect your performance. On the other hand, if you are a budget racer, who can only afford one set of tires, and they happen to be the same brand as the current spec rule, then maybe you're in luck. If they're of a different brand, then, too bad, you are not welcomed at that track or series.
If you are going to purchase a new set of tires or two, or more...like most competitive racers do each year, then it only makes sense to purchase what is best for your track surface, chassis make, and other contributing factors. Purchase what you want, not what you are mandated to purchase.
Burris has a fine tire deal program for tracks wanting to participate, and they are one of the only companies in the karting industry that give back to the karters. Now most other tire companies have seen this approach and have adopted it as well, Hoosier included. I commend them for that. But, on the other hand, I also am glad that we live in a free country where we have choices. I say, let the racers decide and spend their hard earned money how they wish. In reality, it makes the tire that you purchase, (whatever brand that may be), a higher quality product because of competition.
Now, if a track were to accept a "Carlson Racing Engines" spec engine program...
Now doesn't that seem silly? ;)"
If you are a track or organization that would like information on the Hoosier Tire "incentive program" which offers contingency awards to racers running Hoosier tires, or would like to offer an alternative spec tire program using the Hoosier tire brand, please contact your local Hoosier Tire distributor. A list can be found on the Hoosier Tire website.
But, I'm still not sure...what do others think?
Unfortunately there has been so many "get fast quick" schemes advertised on the karting internet forums, (from tire preps, to a pipe that will give you 1/2 horse extra), that I think the average karter feels they can't trust anyone anymore. That might not be all bad. There ARE a lot of gimmicks and snake oil salesman out there. Most run their course and are never heard from again. Trust me, the new Hoosier tires are no flash in the pan gimmick. They are the real deal. Hoosier has made a HUGE monetary investment in our market and is simply "testing the waters" so to speak right now. I really believe they are taking the right steps in "crawling" into the karting market before they "jump" in wide open. ALL of our feedback has been VERY positive on the tires thus far. Why is there more information on the tires on this website than on Hoosier's website? The factory has been overwhelmed with questions, sponsorship proposals, you name it, and simply can't respond to all the karters who have questions. They are quickly getting organized and have recently assigned a small tire coordinator at the factory that will help with the work load tremendously. In the meantime, I have taken it apon myself, with the approval of Neil Cowman at Hoosier, to develop this informative webpage that exists on our site currently. Honestly, I get two or three calls per day asking basic questions about the tires, and that takes up a lot of my valuable time from building engines, etc. So it is in my best interest to provide this valuable information to you as well. We do ask that you be considerate of our valuable time and purchase your tires through our business when possible. We take a great deal of time explaining the Hoosier tires via telephone and emails and hope that our customers appreciate our support after the sale as well. :)
Where can you get the new Hoosier tires?
We, Carlson Motorsports (765)339-4407, have all of the new Hoosier Dirt Kart series slick tires in stock for immediate delivery. We ship nationwide and can sell direct to customer in all 50 states. These tires will also be available at all Hoosier tire retailers, dealers & distributors. Most speed shops are not stocking this tire, and likely won't until demand increases. We have been buying thousands of dollars of their sprint car tires already, so obviously, we are very excited about the arrival of the kart tires. This is something we've been looking forward to for many years now. My days driving our World of Outlaws sprinter may be numbered, but with two sons helping me here in the kart shop every day, we'll be in karting for a long time to come.
While the tires continue to show some real impressive testing, they have also shown some definitive race results. The racers that have already gotten their Hoosier tires will certainly have an advantage as the season progresses because they will have a handle on the tires currently available before more new sizes and compounds are released from the factory. Feedback from racers running their Hoosier Tires has been tremendous! As with any brand change, don't expect to bolt on a set and instantly go faster. You will need some patience and work with your set-ups to get the most out of your new tires, but as I coach my own kids, with patience, comes speed. There is a lot of promise in the new Hoosier Tires, and if the company puts as much development and marketing behind their new karting tire line as they have their big car race tires, then they will be a force to be reckoned with for a ong time to come. Hoosier Tire company has already made a huge investment in the small tire market by aquiring new machinery, molds, personel, etc, devoted soley to the production and distribution of the new small tires. Likewise, we, as a Hoosier Tire dealer, have made an investment in additional tooling for our in-house tire lathes and are constantly updating templates and testing current products. With an increasing number of tire rotisseries and hot boxes in the shop, it should be an interesting progression for sure.
The new Hoosier tires have been well received by the racers and other shops as well. Trade shows are the perfect time to show off new products and that's just what we've been doing each winter. That's something that we've grown immune to with the advent of the internet and message boards. It's always nice to let customers get their hands on the tires and answer their questions personally, one on one.
If there's anything we can help you with, please don't hesitate to call on us. Please pick up the phone and give us a shout.
If anyone has more questions concerning the new Hoosiers, please feel free to give us a call: 765-339-4407, or visit the Hoosier Tire corporate website @: https://www.hoosiertire.com/karttire.htm.
Good luck to all of our Hoosier customers this season!
Carlson Racing Engines